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Documentation — Lindr taps

How to use
your beer tap.

Connection, settings, service, disconnection: everything you need to run your Lindr tap with no stress. If you get lost, we're reachable by phone on the day.

01 / 06

Transport & storage

Three reflexes to have before you even turn the tap on. This is where 80% of day-of problems get avoided.

Always upright

During transport, keep the tap vertical. Lying it down damages the cooling system — that's the classic mistake.

Let the kegs rest

After moving the kegs, give them a few hours of rest ideally. Otherwise: extreme foaming on service, foam everywhere.

Away from sunlight

Place the tap and the kegs somewhere cool, away from sunlight and heat sources. Most craft beers are unfiltered — they foam quickly once they warm up.

02 / 06

Anatomy of the tap

The five elements to spot before you start. Once you've located them, the rest is instinct.

Service handle(s)

On top, to pull fully toward you to serve — never half-way, or it foams.

Pressure adjustment screw

On the front, at the top. Adjust with a flat screwdriver. Typical value: 2.5 bar.

Compressor switch

On the front (sometimes the back). Turn it on after connecting the keg.

Flow control valves

On the right side of each tap. Up = closed. Open them to adjust flow rate.

Thermostat (0 to 7)

On the front. Higher number = colder. Optimal setting: 5. Above that, beer freezes in the line. Allow 10 minutes to reach temperature.

Hoses and coupler

Must be firmly seated at each port and never bent. Three coupler types exist — see section 04.

03 / 06

Connection step by step

The order matters. Follow it and everything goes smoothly.

  1. 1

    Check the starting positions

    Thermostat dial on 0. Flow control valves (to the right of each tap) closed — that means up. Don't cover the ventilation area.

  2. 2

    Inspect the hoses

    No hose should be bent. Check they're firmly seated at each port — a poorly clipped hose means a leak.

  3. 3

    Plug in the power cable

    Standard socket. No adapter needed — it's regular Swiss 230 V.

  4. 4

    Place the coupler on the keg

    Always with the coupler's handle UP before placing it. Each type has its own gesture (see section 04). Once firmly fixed, lower the handle to pierce the keg.

  5. 5

    Turn on the compressor

    Flip the switch on the front (sometimes the back) of the tap. You'll hear the compressor kick in.

  6. 6

    Set the thermostat to 5

    Turn it to 5 — that's the optimal setting. Higher feels tempting, but the beer can freeze inside the line: you'll be looking at 20 minutes with the machine off before you can serve again. At 5, it's cold without ice in the hose. Allow 10 minutes for the machine to reach temperature.

  7. 7

    Pour the first beer

    Pull the service handle all the way — never half-way, it foams. The rinse water in the circuit gives way to beer after a few seconds.

04 / 06

The 3 coupler types

This is the point that gets the most questions on the phone. Every brewery uses a different keg standard — here's how to connect each.

Type S

Screw-on coupler

Screw clockwise

The most common in Europe for Sankey kegs. Place the head on the keg inlet and screw firmly until it stops. Handle always up during the operation.

Type A

Slide-on coupler

Slide horizontally onto the inlet

Mostly a German standard. Slide the head horizontally onto the keg coupling until it clicks. No screwing: it should snap on cleanly.

Keykeg

Quarter-turn coupler

Place and turn one-sixth of a turn

Specific to Keykegs (bag-in-keg, single use, very common with craft brewers). Place the head on the keg inlet and turn one-sixth of a turn to lock it.

Safety handle: how to lower it

S and Keykeg couplers have a safety handle. To raise or lower it, you have to squeeze the lower part of the handle — otherwise it stays locked. It's deliberate, to stop it from popping up by itself under pressure.

05 / 06

Service & day-to-day adjustments

The six reflexes to know if you want to serve cleanly all evening.

Pull the handle all the way

Not half-way. A half-pulled handle foams every time. Either fully open or fully closed — nothing in between.

Thermostat on 5, no higher

5 is the sweet spot: nice and cold beer, no ice in the line. Push it to 6 or 7 and you risk freezing the beer inside — and then it's 20 minutes of forced shutdown before you can serve again. The tap takes about 10 minutes to reach temperature: turn it on at setup, not when you start serving.

Adjust flow with the side valves

On the right of each tap. Up = closed. Open them gradually until you find the right liquid/foam balance.

Pressure: 2.5 bar by default

If you hit a flow problem and your tap has an adjustable compressor, use a flat screwdriver on the pressure screw. Tighten to increase, loosen to lower. 2.5 bar is the reference value.

Rinse plastic cups

Plastic cups foam a lot. Rinse them with cool water right before serving: the foam drops and the glass stays full.

No liquid in the compressor

Never put water, beer or any other liquid into the ventilation opening. Sounds obvious — isn't, after a few glasses.

06 / 06

Disconnection & end of use

The order to tear down without damage. An unfinished keg can absolutely be returned partially used: we don't take it back, but it doesn't leak.

Cut the compressor first

Turn off the compressor switch BEFORE you disconnect the coupler. Not the other way around.

Raise the handle before removing

Always raise the coupler's handle before trying to remove it from the keg. Otherwise you're forcing on the puncture — and risk ripping something out.

Close the valves for transport

Close the flow control valve(s) before moving the tap. Otherwise residual liquid in the circuit drips into your trunk.

What about unopened kegs?

If you haven't pierced a keg, we take it back at no cost — plastic cap intact. So you can order a bit extra to cover the end of the evening without risking running dry.